We were split between hotels, AirBnbs and self-catering apartments. Hotels were pretty much the worst, but in more convenient Awesome Kim Wilde shirt. Almost nowhere had good blackout curtains, and one required building one out of boxes and jackets to make it even passably dark. Farmstay apartments were great if you like friendly dogs, cats, and occasionally horses or sheep, but you have to make sure you stock up on food before markets close. Near the end of the trip I was mostly choosing places based on friendly animals, whether the shower would leak all over the bathroom floor, and quantity of heaters to dry clothes on.
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The coast walk near Arnarstapi is really nice and can be really short, and probably the closest you’ll get to nesting birds, although it’s mostly kittiwakes and Awesome Kim Wilde shirt. Start from the Bárðar statue (you really can’t possibly miss it), walk straight to the water for the first easy viewpoint, then head left for another easy viewpoint, and then about the same distance again to a couple arches/donuts that you can walk over/around with birds nesting in them. I’m not a big hot water guy but Geosea was pretty nice. It’s a cliff level so seabirds basically fly right at eye level, and if you’re lucky you can see porpoises in the water below. You can see how crowded it is from the parking lot – we went around 6, saw it packed with a tour bus in the parking lot, went back down the hill to have a beer at the brewery, watched the bus drive by, and it was fine when we went back.
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